As "Dirt Bag Pack Works" becomes more real I will be moving the contents of this site over to my wordpress blog associated with dirtbagpackworks.com. For now, the new location is thus:
www.blog.dirtbagpackworks.com
Thanks
Bob
14 October 2008
08 October 2008
Overheard
"We're all the same size when we're laying down!"--Loud short girl to security guard in 200 Market building
06 October 2008
Things are in the works.
Still can't say that I've been up to much. I've chilled out on the use of gas and I've been training at the gym a fair amount. A far cry from the start of this summer when I was climbing three days a week, and all of it outside. I did manage to find an outside project, "Lost Boys 5.10+" at Broughton's Bluff Bat Wall. Just in time for the rain to start. It looks like things are going to be wet from here on out.
I'm getting ready to head to Smith in a couple of weeks, where I'll find some more projects. Right now I'm looking at working both Phoenix and Drill 'em and fill' em , both of which are 10a. Phoenix is supposed to be the best 5.10- in the park. I'm excited that I've finally started to sack up and get on routes that are at my level. It will be good to get on a high quality line. For the one of the first times in my climbing.
I know I'm stronger and moving better, because I flashed a V5 at the gym yesterday. I used to not care about grades, but as I'm progressing, I've become slightly fixated on it. Not so much to compete (though at times I catch my competitive side kicking in)but to measure where I've should have been climbing at all this time. I've held myself back for the last two years and I'm not totally pinned down by my own head.
I think it helps that I've been putting in sometime on straight up gym workouts. I've build up some mental toughness by pushing myself through some circuit workouts, complex work outs, straight up strength work, and I shouldn't forget...runs up to 60 minutes.
As some of you know, I tried to keep track and share my workouts on my google calendars, which I was not good at keeping up, mostly because I couldn't get it to work the way I wanted to. I started a training blog, which can be found here: Training blog, or at the link on the sidebar.
I have become a complete nerd about training. I read training blogs, I read and buy books about weight training, climbing movement, Rob Shul even answered my question on one of his daily posts. I've totally geeked out. I realized that I've been busting my ass on these killer work outs because I want to become an alpine climber!! Here are a few who are inspiring me right now:
Reinhold Messner
Steve House,
Rolando Garribotti,
Right now I'm working toward getting the required gear, I'm going to take an AAI class in the Summer and I'm going to start easy with the 3 Sisters, and hopefully several trips up to Washington Pass.
Lastly and most importantly. Two weeks ago I went to Mill End and got some Cordura. I'm starting my own company making chalk buckets, bags and soon packs. Ben Dewey is working on a logo and I'm just waiting to launch.
Dirt Bag Packworks is coming soon
That's all I've got for now. But stay tuned for some more, hopefully more consistent posts.
I'm getting ready to head to Smith in a couple of weeks, where I'll find some more projects. Right now I'm looking at working both Phoenix and Drill 'em and fill' em , both of which are 10a. Phoenix is supposed to be the best 5.10- in the park. I'm excited that I've finally started to sack up and get on routes that are at my level. It will be good to get on a high quality line. For the one of the first times in my climbing.
I know I'm stronger and moving better, because I flashed a V5 at the gym yesterday. I used to not care about grades, but as I'm progressing, I've become slightly fixated on it. Not so much to compete (though at times I catch my competitive side kicking in)but to measure where I've should have been climbing at all this time. I've held myself back for the last two years and I'm not totally pinned down by my own head.
I think it helps that I've been putting in sometime on straight up gym workouts. I've build up some mental toughness by pushing myself through some circuit workouts, complex work outs, straight up strength work, and I shouldn't forget...runs up to 60 minutes.
As some of you know, I tried to keep track and share my workouts on my google calendars, which I was not good at keeping up, mostly because I couldn't get it to work the way I wanted to. I started a training blog, which can be found here: Training blog, or at the link on the sidebar.
I have become a complete nerd about training. I read training blogs, I read and buy books about weight training, climbing movement, Rob Shul even answered my question on one of his daily posts. I've totally geeked out. I realized that I've been busting my ass on these killer work outs because I want to become an alpine climber!! Here are a few who are inspiring me right now:
Reinhold Messner
Steve House,
Rolando Garribotti,
Right now I'm working toward getting the required gear, I'm going to take an AAI class in the Summer and I'm going to start easy with the 3 Sisters, and hopefully several trips up to Washington Pass.
Lastly and most importantly. Two weeks ago I went to Mill End and got some Cordura. I'm starting my own company making chalk buckets, bags and soon packs. Ben Dewey is working on a logo and I'm just waiting to launch.
Dirt Bag Packworks is coming soon
That's all I've got for now. But stay tuned for some more, hopefully more consistent posts.
13 September 2008
Let me ride.
I picked up a mountain bike today. It's old, steel and sweet. Can't beat a price tag of 40 dollars. Stoked to go out and ride instead of running all the time. Of course I'll probably just stack them on top of each other. I don't plan on going all out, just up to forest park or Mt. Tabor to throttle my self on the hills.
07 September 2008
Cold slap.
Last week all was put on hold because I was bitched slapped by an end of summer cold. I've never gotten a cold in the summer. Really? Who does that? My cold was passed along to me from Amy, who got from hanging out a Erin's. This wasn't the type of cold where you can just sack up and deal with it. I was shut down. In fact, I was so shut down that I couldn't even think about climbing, or training. However, now I am somewhat back to normal, just the lingering weakness, the persistent cough, and a nose full of goo that won't go away.
The last few weeks I haven't been outside as much as I would've liked. Chris is on a time budget, and Jeff has been busy guiding teenagers up the faces of Smith Rock. I have definitely gotten stronger this summer and was able to put down a few projects that I've always been capable of doing, I just needed to get my head in order. Though I'm still working on that.
In other news, I installed Freespire on our PC, but I'm still working on getting the bugs out. This is slow work. I made the first prototype of a chalk bucket, a bag is next. The boys went back to school, Julian started kindergarten and is digging it. I've been thinking a lot about what is going on with politics in this country. I went through a phase where I was talking about this a lot, but then it got boring, so I lost interest. But now things look like they're looking up. Becoming more exciting that is.
I started a new training regiment to get ready for Smith this fall. I'm trying to work out a way to borrow a car for the times that I can't find a partner, this way I can take my one weekend a month and get outside during the rainy months of Fall and Winter in the Northwest. I have some big projects for next year, and hopefully a trip to Yosemite, or C-rodo this year. But I've got to get some things in order before I can take a big trip like that. I'll be back later. Time for breakfast.
The last few weeks I haven't been outside as much as I would've liked. Chris is on a time budget, and Jeff has been busy guiding teenagers up the faces of Smith Rock. I have definitely gotten stronger this summer and was able to put down a few projects that I've always been capable of doing, I just needed to get my head in order. Though I'm still working on that.
In other news, I installed Freespire on our PC, but I'm still working on getting the bugs out. This is slow work. I made the first prototype of a chalk bucket, a bag is next. The boys went back to school, Julian started kindergarten and is digging it. I've been thinking a lot about what is going on with politics in this country. I went through a phase where I was talking about this a lot, but then it got boring, so I lost interest. But now things look like they're looking up. Becoming more exciting that is.
I started a new training regiment to get ready for Smith this fall. I'm trying to work out a way to borrow a car for the times that I can't find a partner, this way I can take my one weekend a month and get outside during the rainy months of Fall and Winter in the Northwest. I have some big projects for next year, and hopefully a trip to Yosemite, or C-rodo this year. But I've got to get some things in order before I can take a big trip like that. I'll be back later. Time for breakfast.
03 August 2008
Wish I cculd say that I've been to busy living life to post, but that would be a half-truth
We have been a bit busy. But in the end I'm just not making the time to write. Have been busy climbing though. I'm finally learning to "sack up" and go for it outside. I've broken through to the the point where I'm pushing my self and get on things that are a bit over my head. But really, it right where I need to be...I'm just starting to access some of the skill and strength that's been hiding inside my fear all along. This means that things that used to spit me off, are starting to become doable. There was a time when I never thought I'd be able to climb 5.10 trad, but now I'm on the cusp.
A long term project finally fell this week. "Classic Crack" is a short, but beautiful climb at Broughton's Bluff rated (not that it matters) 5.9+. In total I probably spent ten days on it, and until last week, I constantly got my ass handed to me. Last Tuesday Matt and I went up to work on the line and magically I made it to the top not once, but three times. Feeling good I went for the lead, but let fear get the best of me and had to hang on a piece. I didn't let it get me down though. It's all part of the process. I took a few lessons away that night.
One rest day later I was back with Jeff. I went straight for it and fell at the last move. My first whipper on a small cam! After working out the right gear with Jeff and four more attempts. I laced up for one final go before the ranger shows up to hand out tickets. It was one of those moments where everything comes together. With Jeff shouting encouragement, lunched into the moves confidently. Getting the gear with little effort. After a brief moment of distraction, I brought my self back together and pulled through the final moves. Yelped with Glee, packed up and went home.
The best thing about reaching a goal is not the feeling of achievement, but the knowledge that you're prepared for the next challenge. Now its 15 feet down the wall to Sheer Stress (10a). I'm giddy like a school boy.
A long term project finally fell this week. "Classic Crack" is a short, but beautiful climb at Broughton's Bluff rated (not that it matters) 5.9+. In total I probably spent ten days on it, and until last week, I constantly got my ass handed to me. Last Tuesday Matt and I went up to work on the line and magically I made it to the top not once, but three times. Feeling good I went for the lead, but let fear get the best of me and had to hang on a piece. I didn't let it get me down though. It's all part of the process. I took a few lessons away that night.
One rest day later I was back with Jeff. I went straight for it and fell at the last move. My first whipper on a small cam! After working out the right gear with Jeff and four more attempts. I laced up for one final go before the ranger shows up to hand out tickets. It was one of those moments where everything comes together. With Jeff shouting encouragement, lunched into the moves confidently. Getting the gear with little effort. After a brief moment of distraction, I brought my self back together and pulled through the final moves. Yelped with Glee, packed up and went home.
The best thing about reaching a goal is not the feeling of achievement, but the knowledge that you're prepared for the next challenge. Now its 15 feet down the wall to Sheer Stress (10a). I'm giddy like a school boy.
11 July 2008
Things aren't always as they seam (V1)
Last night I finally got off my ass and cleaned the boulder I've been talking about. What I thought was a small finger crack, turned out to just be seam so small that you wouldn't even be able to get gear in it. However it is broken by a few rails. After an hour and a halft of cleaning, and two attempts, I climbed the problem with very little light, necesitating a headlamp. It's an easy, but fun problem. There is at least one more problem, and with a LOT more cleaning a traverse may also be possible. My friend Ben came to help clean and take pictures, though he decided to not give the problem ago because of the scetchy landing. I recon that it goes at about 6b, or V1 (I like the french grading system a lot better), but I need a few other people to give it ago. I'm calling the problem "Things aren't always as they seam.". Here are the pics.
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