Good day....Bad day

Last week, Chris, Matt and I headed up to the wonderful "Bavarian" Village of Leavnworth, Washington for some climbing. Overall it was a good trip...fun routes, good boulder problems, and fun filled epic day on a "Diagonal" a Fred Becky route that had me wanting my mommy. But by far the best part was bringing home some poison oak! Yes for the second time in three months by body is covered in a lovely red rash. Its got me feeling run down and tired, but I have carried on to do fun stuff, such as hitting up the skate park with the boys.

Two weeks ago, my long board proved a bit too cumbersome for the skate park, so I invested some of my hard earned funds in a fine looking stick, which I still can't ride, but makes the park fun, and allows me to do more fun stuff with the boys.

Summer has finally arrived in the Northwest, for the most part the skies have been clear,aside from some haze (thanks to wildfires in California)and a bit of humidity, things have been perfect.

I took advantage of this yesterday by heading up to Carver with Chris to get a few projects off of my back. For the past two months I've been working my ass off in the gym (or at home) even though I've stopped the business of posting my work outs, doesn't mean that I've been slacking off. I don't normally have good climbing days outside, I always seem to puss out and not go for it. I'm happy to report that I bucked that trend yesterday. I actually used redpoint techniques to dial the moves that where giving me trouble on Rubicon (5.9). After 3 redpoint attempts I have finally put it to rest. Chris being the great climbing partner that he is didn't allow me to puss out again, so we moved down the crag to New Generation(5.8+) a route that has always given me a hard time. I hadn't been on it in almost a year, and I've never tried to lead it. I won't say that I wasn't a little freaked out, but I pulled through it to the run out section and gunned it to the chains.

Though not a difficult as Rubicon, it meant more to me, and I couldn't help but yelp with joy when I clipped the chains. I forgot for a moment that I'm itchy as all hell.

I had today off because I swapped with Jonathan so he can head home to see his dad. It was my plan to clean a boulder problem which may or may not have been done. However, when I woke up this morning with a raging headache, which soon had me on my knees in the bathroom floor pucking my guts out this morning. Needless to say, today took the form of a rest day. Chopper and I watched 300 and chilled on the couch all day. So not such a bad day I guess.

Hoodwinked

The weather went sour on us this weekend. But as the news rolls next to me I see that people in Iowa got hit hard. So I'll stop complaining about the rain.

However, big things did happen this weekend. We got a D-O-G, DOG!

This is Chopper. He is eight years old and we rescued him with the help of the fine people at Pacific Pug Rescue. This is the dog that Amy wanted. He's already trained and has a chill temperament. Yes, his tongue is always out, ala Midnight.

Even though the weather crapped out on me, I managed to put in a good solid session at the gym yesterday. I did three V4s and I mixed them up by different set dates. So there was constancy, Since some problems get set a little soft. I also onsighted two V3s. I've been making most of my gym sessions "practice sessions" which means that I'm not concerned about sending per sea, but just trying to focus on technique. However, you need to have "performance days", where you work towards actual sends, use the technique you've been working on. Today, I'm going to try and take advantage of the day off and got for another performance day

My Internet went down on Tuesday, and it didn't get back "on" until this morning. Hence the lack of updates. As if any one cares.

Jeff got sick this week, so no Smith Rock for me. Which is fine because we're getting a dog tonight and Amy wanted me around to help her out. But, it's a beautiful day outside and I'm going to head out to carver and do some bouldering.

I'll be back later with pictures. For now, heres the work outs.

Worked!!

As I said in a previous post, I've been working my ass off. My work out schedule has come down to a four week to one cycle. Four weeks of hard, high intensity work outs. On the fifth week I take two rest days in stead of one and tone done down the intensity significantly. The only constant is four days a week of climbing and 30 minutes of running twice a week. On top of commuting to work on my bike four days(since I don't work Fridays, for those of you who think I've gone soft).

I've been getting lots of inspiration from Mark Twight and from Rob Shaul I check both of these sites daily, and pull a lot of my non-climbing exercises from them.

After a full five week cycle I'm starting to see and feel the results. Its got me very excited and I'm being slightly obsessive about it. I've got a list of some very good climbing projects and their all going to fall this summer! I'm working towards developing lots of explosive power, speed and endurance so I can eventually test my self in the mountains.

I'm going to start posting my exercises in my google calendar, so if you are even slightly interested check 'em out. Here's the link.


WORK OUT CALENDER!!!

All in all, it was a good weekend.

The good weather rolled into Stumptown this week. The first of the hot days rolled in on Thursday, but the weather was great all week. Thursday was the hottest, and I was itching to get outside. Luckily, Friday was equally as good. Amy went to on a field trip with Savion, so it was mine and Julian's day to chill. After dropping Amy and Savi, Julian and I came back to house, where Julers watched Spy Kids, and I called into a meeting. After the meeting Julian and I headed to Laurlhurst park so he could ride his scooter around. Julian had a good time bombing this dirt hill.



I even got in on some of the action.



After that we climbed some trees, where Julian made up some race for us to do, which he of course won.

An accounting of the days events is all well and good, but it gets a bit boring. My transition from total train wreck to some what of a father figure has been interesting. When I first started spending time with the boys I was nervous and timid. Now I feel much more comfortable in this skin. Its interesting being partially responsible for people who can't take care of themselves. It isn't always easy, but it is well worth it. The amount of growing as a person I've done since I started living here full time is astounding. It feels good, the added responsibility is tough, but its starting to bleed into other aspects of my life. I can say that at this point I am pretty damn happy with where things are at, and even more excited about where their going.

Now to climbing....

There is a route at Broughton's Bluff called "Classic Crack". Both guide books I've looked it up in say its 5.9+, which really means 5.10. I've been on this route about six or seven times (on TR) and it always shuts me down. Its classic, which means it gets a lot of traffic, so I got up at six this morning and headed out. I warmed up on Giant's stair case, then headed over to Classic.
I think I've finally gotten the kinks worked out of the mini-traxtion rig .
Things didn't change much today. I managed three laps on it and now my hands look like hamburger meat. I did get some valuable beta though and I'm looking forward to getting on it again.

Next weekend Jeff and I are headed down to Smith for a couple of days. I'm going to try and get on Chicken McNuggets Good thing I've got the upgrade from the best climbing shoes on earth.


I'll let you know how it goes next week.

Hard at work

Here comes a post.

Today is not off to a good start. But I'm going to try and pull through and salvage what's left of the day. Which is a fair amount of time, considering its only nine in the morning. On the plus side, the poison oak has cleared up and now I'm only itchy because the skin on my left arm is drier than the Sahara.
Yesterday was a bit of a crazy day. I got to do some "Dad" stuff when I went with Amy to set up for the carnival at Abernathy. People kept referring to me as Julian's dad and Amy's husband. It felt good, so I didn't correct them. When we got back home I had a message from my Mom, which sounded kinda urgent. When I called back she told me that my sister and James where getting married in an hour!! Apparently James is got back into the Army and leaves for training on the 20th of May. He'll be bouncing around the country for summer, then he'll either be stationed at Ford Hood, someplace in Florida, or in Germany!
Which means that for the first time my sister will be far away from the rest of my family. I'm sure she's a bit nervous, but I know in the long run it will be good for her. Since I missed out on the opportunity to go away for school, I didn't really have to go through the feeling of having to fend totally for my self until I really moved to Portland, at the sad age of 27. This experience will be good for her.
James has already done a tour in Afghanistan and Iraq, and I'm certian that he will end up at one of those places again. Which means my sister will be alone in a new place for a while. I think she'll do great though, she's one of the toughest people I know.
I like James, even though we disagree on a lot of things pertaining to foreign policy. But he's lived U.S. policy, and for that he has my eternal respect. Though I couldn't sign up my self. I think that serving one's country is the most noble thing that anyone can do. I know that they'll be great together.

In other news, the fabled stimulus arrived yesterday. I know the country can't really afford it right now, but I'll take 600 bucks financed by the Chinese. Thank you communist China!
With the cash in my account and rent paid, I headed down to REI to help the economy. I walked away with a pair of shorts, two new shirts for work and a new crash pad. I unloaded my Revolution AK a few months ago because I decided that I didn't need a pad of that size So I replaced it with this bad boy. This pad will be perfect for bouldering at Carver, and hopefully scooting around Squamish later this summer. When I bought the AK I was primarily a boulder, but now that my needs have changed, I don't need the giant pad. The commando, coupled with my old black diamond pad will be perfect for quick bouldering missions, and maybe some good buildering.

What else has been going on? I've been busting my ass in the gym. I'm down ten pounds from a month ago, which feels great. I've been running for thirty minutes at least twice a week and doing three hour gym sessions a couple days a week, climbing and lifting. I'm getting stronger, both mentally and physically. I've been climbing with my buddy Jeff, who is pushing me hard and making me take some good whippers. I'll be over my crippling fear of falling outside in no time.

Here's what a typical climbing day looks like.
5.8 warm up, 5.9, 5.10-, 5.10-, then a good go on a 5.10 lead route. After that I'll top-rope the hand crack and a 5.10+ then if I'm up to it I'll TR a 5.11-.
Then its to the hang board for hanging lock offs, finger repeaters or a hang board work out, then the treadmill for 30.

On non-climbing days:
15 min weight plate
3x10 burpees
3x15 squat jumps
3x20 kb swings 25#
3x15 kb squats 50#
4x10 push-ups
4x25 crunches.
Saturday is family day...so I rest. Then Sunday is just a climbing day, where I hopefully get outside and work on some projects.

That's all I've got for now. I've got to head out to a soccer game in half-hour. Oh yeah, I got contacts too!